Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city is no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their children are reluctant to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these tales and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
